Wonderful! Many thanks once more for your comments, and making it possible for me to write-up your comments — These are appreciated!
Initial, I apologize for your hold off in responding — I'd a insane number of weeks about the vacations and didn’t do A great deal running a blog.
You already know, it Seems an awefull whole lot like what mine was doing — which turned out to get the “plastic” bushings among the forks In the transfer situation.
Generally, that is definitely telling you that there is a problem from the transfer case — difficulty codes needs to be established, so have your motor vehicle scanned by your mechanic. I haven't any encounter With all the 4WD company mild, so aside from that, I have no further information and facts.
That’s some very good information and facts to possess. Please do let me know the way you make out With all the encoder motor replacement.
Outstanding — I’m glad that my weblog was ready to help you address your issue, and ideally preserve some money! Regards;
Effectively, that’s one which I haven’t listened to but. The “ATS” fuse (that is marked “ATC” on this schematic) materials 12VDC to two massive orange wires with the TCCM (marked as pins C18 and C19 to the schematic). As I reported, I haven’t witnessed this problem before, so I haven’t traced that Portion of the system. I'm able to only believe (yeah, I am aware!) that the since these wires provide 12VDC, They are really accustomed to operate heavier issues like the encoder motor (5VDC, that's The sunshine guage orange wire, is used for logic — ie. to operate the “chips” around the circuit board). Hopefully, you may see the place I’m likely using this type of. I’m just trying to consider it logically — In the event the fuse is blowing that supplies 12VDC, what during the 4WD technique would use 12VDC?
Mine would go into 4WD, the two Lo and Hi, but would sometimes slip away from 4WD (mainly in Hi) causing a loud grinding/banging noise. When screening it in 4Lo, it will in some cases not go anyplace, then Swiftly drop into gear like and snap your head back again (using a hell of the bang at the same time).
If anything is engaging / disengaging correctly, I can’t see it getting a dilemma as a temporary repair. Naturally, I wouldn’t propose it as being a long lasting deal with (gotta say it!).
As I claimed into a former poster, if you wish to get into it, remove the encoder motor from the TC then try out to engage the different travel modes — and view the motor to make sure it’s transferring in both directions (it should really arrive at a quit in 3 diverse positions, to the three generate modes — mark wherever it's when you start to help you place it again there if all else fails!
When the transmission engages, but the entrance hub isn't going to, you've got a vacuum trouble. Now, this does not often mean There exists a issue Along with the Actual physical vacuum strains, or vacuum itself — it *could* suggest the vacuum swap is Going Here not acquiring electric power, which would not allow it to show on, which would generate the outcome of no vacuum on the diaphram and, perfectly, For those who have no vacuum within the diaphram, your entrance, correct axle will no have interaction.
I’m not entirely certain what triggers the lights to simply blink after which not go into equipment. The 1st time I set the Blazer in 4Hi this Wintertime, it did just that…. I had to put it in neutral for it to enter 4Hi. Given that then, it'll shift on-the-fly. Why? I don’t know. There should be sensors possibly during the TC or even the encoder motor to let it know when it has achieved it’s intended mode… I’d suspect it’s Component of the encoder motor, but I’m just guessing.
I'll head out and choose pics prior to I depart for do the job this morning or I will forget about all over again. I will try to get a fantastic shot in the connector that can assist you Find where the wires go. No staying sensible listed here, however, you *should* be capable of see wherever they go… for the reason that there'll be considered a gap wherever the wire ought to go.
 Without a doubt, for many vehicles, the caster is just not adjustable in the least with no replacing your suspension. If a toe correction doesn't fix your problems, it is feasible caster really should be altered. A mechanic can let you know if this is essential or maybe possible.